Herbs, hiking
and a hearty welcome
Switzerland
© Remo Vetter
A herb walk. Such a simple idea: walking and talking, and learning about herbs. So simple, in fact, that you almost can’t believe how rewarding it is. Who would have thought that the best way to get to know about the natural treasures of the Appenzell region would be with such a gentle activity? But it is exactly that. An experience that teaches about the healing power and culinary use of herbs along with a mountain hike to uncover some surprises in the area.
This one-of-a-kind tour, led by Cosa’s favourite ‘lazy gardener’, begins near Appenzell, a village in the eastern foothills of the Swiss Alps.
It all started with one plant
It all started with one plant
Meet Echinacea purpurea. This is the plant that planted the seed of today’s success story. And the man who helped that seed grow? Alfred Vogel, a pioneer of Swiss herbal medicine and holistic wellness practices during the mid-20th century. The renowned naturopath was both a dear friend and mentor to Remo Vetter, our very own lazy gardener. Vogel began sharing his botanical insights with Remo and his wife, Frances, beginning with that one plant. Today, thanks to their dedication, the garden paradise where they work is home to over 80 herbs. And that garden is where our Alpine herb adventure begins.
Living the good life
Remo’s passion for getting his hands dirty and connecting with the earth is apparent from the outset. He is clearly a man doing what he loves most, as has been the case for over three decades. Remo gardened for the Vogel firm for nearly 36 years, before becoming the lazy gardener with an active life. His hard work promotes using herbs as natural remedies with healing properties plus producing them for award-winning chefs to incorporate into their culinary masterpieces. He and Frances spend their days ploughing the rich Appenzeller soil, cultivating these magical green babies and showing visitors around the garden in Weissbad.
Fresh from field to table
Did you know that a single earwig can eat up to 100 aphids in a single night? You’ll be able to quote such fun facts after the garden walk as it’s full of insider knowledge about herbal uses and tips to help plants live their best lives. After this introduction to the world of herbs comes a wonderful alfresco lunch with fresh produce, picked from the land and placed on the table. Pleasure over, it’s time for the business side of the day: a hiking adventure to scout some of these herbs in the beautiful countryside. Out and about in the mountains, you get the chance to examine some medicinal plants in their savage state, and to discover a few hidden gems that tell the timeless tale of this quintessential Swiss region.
Going to
the chapel
Going to
the chapel
Botanical spottings, soaking up the great outdoors and connecting with this charming couple aren’t the only things you’ll enjoy on this enlightening expedition. During the hike, you can see some secret caves, once home to ancient hermits and mountain bears. And, of course, an acclaimed Swiss hotspot and famous photo-op location: Aescher, with its inn in the side of a cliff. Just as romantic is nearby Wildkirchli, a still-functioning ‘wild chapel’. And hey, if you’re thinking of getting married or renewing your vows, this would be a unique and special place to do it.
Down on the farm
Down on the farm
By late afternoon we’re in the company of Annemarie, a woman with the magic touch when it comes to cheese. Twice a week all year round, she ventures up to her grotto in the mountains to rub a top-secret substance – called Kräutersulz – on the ageing wheels of cheese. We have the much easier task of enjoying a homemade farm supper with Annemarie and her family. Mouthfuls of Swiss specialties like Älpermagronen (macaroni cheese with apple sauce – don’t knock it ‘til you try it), Rösti, Chäshörnli and (of course) heaps of cheese, go hand-in-hand with tales about the true beauty of life in the mountains.
The excursion can be tailored to your interests and levels of adventure. If you’re the camping type, you could opt for the two-day overnight immersive experience during firefly season, sleeping on haystacks under the stars. Some might say that genuinely connecting with locals in Switzerland can be quite a feat, even for the Swiss themselves. That’s not the case with Remo, who showed me the true warmth of the people of Appenzellerland.
Come and discover the hidden beauty of the region with him, and you’ll also have the heartfelt bonus of making a lifelong friend.
Written by: Dennis Conatser on 10 December 2023
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