Where the water
rushes and roars
Rhine Falls
© Schaffhauserland Tourism
Its vital statistics are impressive: 150 metres wide, 23 metres high and over 600,000 litres of water rushing over the edge every second in the early summer peak. Welcome to Europe’s largest waterfall! I love getting a little closer to hear the roar of the water and feel the spray on my face, and there are a couple of ways to do that. Read on and I’ll tell you my secrets of the Rhine Falls.
How do I know so much about one of the biggest natural attractions in the country? For more than ten years, I’ve been living in Schaffhausen, the northernmost canton of Switzerland, on the border with Germany and home to the Rhine Falls. And as someone who loves being on or by the water, these waterfalls draw me all the time – and, reader, I even got married here several years ago.
Changing seasons
It isn’t only the scale of these falls that impresses me (we all know that size isn’t everything) but the way they change with the seasons. In spring, the swirling waters seem to compete with each other, in a dry summer you can almost go for a walk in the shallow waters above the falls. In autumn, orange and yellow trees frame the broad basin in warm colours, and in winter everything is peaceful as few tourists come to enjoy the views.
Time to get wet
Now, it’s time to get personal – with the falls, I mean. You want to feel the force? Maybe get a little relief from the summer heat? Then get in one of the colourful open boats that sidle up to the base of the falls. Some captains are skillful enough to manoeuvre the vessels up to the water so that at least half of the boat’s passengers feel a spray of cooling water on their faces. Or you can hop off onto the tiny island in the middle of the crashing water.
If you prefer to stay on dry ground, there are two spots for the best views. The Rhine Falls actually straddle the border between the cantons of Schaffhausen and Zurich, and the northern shore (on the Schaffhausen side) gives the best panorama of the waterfalls. Or if you want to get closer, head for the Zurich side where concrete platforms jut out from the cliff right beside the water’s edge. Just don’t step too far back for that selfie…
Days and nights
I love sitting and watching the water. Or walking from one side to the other, following a footpath that leads across the railway bridge, so don’t be surprised when a train passes close by while you’re crossing. You can also walk all the way to Schaffhausen itself, by following the Rhine upstream for around 45 minutes. It’s a gentle stroll along the riverbank, with plenty of spots to stop and watch the water flow past. Best of all, come back at night and see the falls lit up in different colours.
Wealthy waters
The Rhine Falls are the main reason the city of Schaffhausen became so wealthy during the time when salt was shipped from the Alps and cereal from southern Germany. Goods had to be unloaded just before the falls so it could be transported by horse and cart to overcome this obstacle. Don’t forget, the Rhine has its source in the Swiss mountains but flows through six countries before reaching the North Sea.
My last tip: if you take the train from Zurich, sit on the right-hand side facing the direction of travel. Shortly before you arrive in Schaffhausen, you’ll pass through a short tunnel and as soon as you emerge into daylight again, the Rhine Falls will appear in all their glory. I never get tired of seeing them from this angle on my way to work and back again in the evening.
