On the trail of truffles and wines
Italy
It’s early morning and the crisp autumn air fills my lungs as I venture into the quiet woods surrounding Alba, a region of Piedmont famed for its truffles. A local trifolao, a skilled truffle hunter, leads the way accompanied by his trusty dog. With each rustle of leaves as we walk between the trees, I feel a shiver of anticipation: the hunt is on.
The truffle forests of Alba aren’t the only reason for gourmet lovers to visit Piedmont. This region of northern Italy also has the rolling vineyards of Barolo and the royal streets of Turin, making it one of Italy’s cultural and gastronomic gems.
The thrill of the hunt
Let’s start with those divine truffles, and how they are found. The dogs are trained to sniff out the prized fungi buried deep beneath the earth, sometimes hidden up to 30cm below the surface. The dog that I’m with sniffs eagerly, his excitement growing as he nears a patch of soil. When he finally uncovers his prize, the earthy aroma of the rare white truffle fills the air. I realise that I’m witnessing something ancient and profound, an experience deeply rooted in the region’s history.
The fun of the fair
But the magic doesn’t stop there. Back in the truffle capital of the world, the annual Alba White Truffle Fair is in full swing. The town buzzes with excitement as food lovers from around the globe gather to celebrate this delicacy. Stalls line the hall, offering everything from fresh truffles to exquisite local products, all culminating in a sensory feast that’s impossible to forget. By the way, white truffle season is late September to early December, whereas black truffles are typically found in November to March.
Each sip tells a story of tradition, of vineyards passed down through generations, and the passion of winemakers who have mastered the art. The flavours of truffle and wine merge perfectly, especially over a plate of tajarin, a delicate egg pasta topped with freshly shaved truffles. Paired with a glass of Barolo, it’s a meal that embodies the essence of Piedmont’s culinary prowess. For more on the whole art of winemaking, I also visit the fascinating WiMu, Italy’s most innovative wine museum.
Royal elegance
Royal elegance
Turin was the first capital of a united Italy, but is still the regional capital, and this once-royal city offers a very different side to Piedmont. Wandering through grand piazzas and past baroque façades, I can feel Turin’s regal history all around me. Piazza Castello is the heart of the city, with its impressive Palazzo Reale, a reminder of the powerful Savoy dynasty that once ruled from here. The kings are long gone but their legacy remains.
Culinary delights
But Turin isn’t only about history, this city is also a gastronomic haven. I find a restaurant where the pride of Piedmontese cuisine is on display. Tajarin pasta with truffle shavings, risotto infused with Barolo wine and slow-cooked meats drizzled with truffle oil are a few local specialties. Every bite feels like a celebration of tradition and innovation. Turin masterfully blends its royal past with a contemporary flair for food and wine, making it an unforgettable stop on my journey.
Arrivederci Piedmont
Arrivederci Piedmont
As I leave this lovely region, the memories of truffle hunting, wine tasting and strolling through Turin’s elegant streets linger. It’s a place where every moment is an ode to the finest pleasures in life and I know that I’ll be drawn back to its charm. Whether you’re a food lover, a wine enthusiast or someone who appreciates history (or all three together!), this region invites you to indulge all your senses. Once you’ve experienced Piedmont, you’ll want to return again and again.
By: Vanessa Tschudi December 2024
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