Slow travel in the land of rice
Vietnam
© Avana Retreat
Sometimes when travelling, you have a moment that makes the whole trip worthwhile. And very often, it happens when you least expect it. For me, it was while I was gazing out of a train window, watching the ever-changing landscape of Vietnam unfold before me. I was on board the Vietage train, immersed in the verdant countryside and totally captivated by the rice farmers in the padi fields. It was, in essence, a dream come true – yes, travel agents have wish-lists too, and Vietnam has always been on mine.
Vietnam is vast, with over 3,000km of coastline and countless sights to see. But I wanted to do things differently, to escape the tourist trail and see more of local life. So I joined a small group of travel agents for a discovery tour that went off the beaten track but also took to the tracks, taking the train for a part of the trip.
Capital setting
Capital setting
For many visitors, the first taste of Vietnam is Hanoi. Its mix of French and colonial architecture has echoes of its past but the capital still feels alive and fresh. People in shops and restaurants are so welcoming that I felt like a local for much of the time. It’s also very cosmopolitan, with a café society vibe that I didn’t expect. The same goes for the food. Many restaurants serve the freshest phos and summer rolls, while others, such as the one in the Capella Hanoi Hotel, give snails a very Vietnamese twist, serving them with lemongrass, lime leaf and minced pork.
Mountain retreat
If you’re coming here to explore somewhere new, head to Mai Chau, an oft-overlooked destination about a four-hour drive from Hanoi. Up here in the mountains is the haven that you need after a long journey. I stayed at the Avana Retreat, an exclusive hotel in lush surroundings, with a high comfort level and luxury facilities like private cottages with pools. Nothing is off the menu here, from relaxing massages in the spa to a candlelit dinner for two by the waterfall.
Rural life
Venturing to the nearby village on my daytime treks meant I was inspired by another lifestyle. I spoke to local craftsmen, saw how they worked, found out about their traditions and ate like they did: a picnic with fresh salads and fish with rice overlooking the padi fields. I really felt like I was leaving modern life behind. This lunch was such a unique experience for me, such a beautiful scene that I will never forget it for the rest of my life.
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© Anantara
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© Anantara
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© Anantara
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© Anantara
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Tracks of time
Tracks of time
Instead of driving, why not opt for something completely different and totally luxurious? For my journey southwards from Da Nang, I boarded The Vietage by Anantara, a train like no other in Vietnam. Sitting in the train’s semi-private carriage, enjoying a three-course meal cooked by the on-board chef, certainly makes the six-hour journey a memorable experience. This is a special kind of slow travel. The landscape is ever changing, the scenery evolving, with only the farmers in their traditional large hats reminding you which country you’re in.
Discretion assured
Discretion assured
Spots like Quy Nhon are what I came to Vietnam for. It’s another place not on the tourist trail, with a beautiful coastline and pristine beaches, totally unspoilt and quiet. To increase this sense of seclusion and calm, getting your own villa is the way to go, right? I chose the Anantara Quy Nhon, a small property with 25 modern villas, each with its own pool. Some are on the hillside, some by the beach, and it was the closest to paradise I’ve ever been. When you stay here, you really savour every moment. For me, Quy Nhon is the best place in Vietnam to hit reset. And a perfect place to end my trip.
By: Enzo Marraffino December 2024
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