Taking to the water
in Ticino
Lake Lugano
We stopped in the middle of the lake before reaching the border with Italy, so we could enjoy the mountains around us and the lovely sound of silence. It was already a perfect moment but it got even better when a picnic appeared as if by magic. Glasses, plates and napkins, all ready for us. Plus fresh homemade focaccia and, of course, a bottle of prosecco so we made a toast and stayed for a while listening to the story of how this experience began.
Lake Lugano isn’t perhaps the best-known lake in Switzerland. It’s not as big as Lake Geneva or as popular as Lake Lucerne. In fact, you might be tempted to dismiss it as simply another Swiss lake – and even that’s only half true as the Italian border criss-crosses the shore. But with the right boat and the right captain, this watery tour in Ticino becomes a magical experience.
Fishing boat
This wasn’t just any boat, it’s an old fisherman’s vessel with a unique story and has been lovingly restored. And we weren’t with just any captain. The huge smile that greeted us in Lugano marina revealed how happy she was to show us her way of life on and along this lake. And she was definitely the one in charge: before entering the boat, we had to take off our shoes, both to preserve the cherished boat and to make us feel like we’re at home.
Southern charm
As soon as we glided away from Lugano, we already felt the Mediterranean flair of this enchanting region. From the water, we could see the beautiful Villa Favorita, which was once the art gallery of Baron Heinrich Thyssen-Bornemisza, and the Sentiero dell’olivo, a gentle trail where people can learn more about olive trees. Before long, we were in front of Gandria, a picturesque village at the foot of Mont Brè that’s inaccessible by car. With its cute houses and interesting history, this village felt worlds away from Ticino’s biggest city, even if we were not actually that far.
Family history
And then we were taken even further away, back to our captain’s childhood memories, to the summers with her father and older brothers on daily fishing trips. Or listening to her mother and grandmother prepare the food, saying they should open a traditional restaurant. Then one day, years later, she was driving from her job in an office and looked at the lake. That’s when it came to her: why not bring her father’s boat up from Italy and pursue her dream of making a life on the water.
So she brought the boat to Lugano and restored it to how she remembered from her childhood, but adding extras like soft cushions to make it more comfortable for guests. And towels, for those wanting to take a dip in the clear water. We were there on a sunny April day and none of us was brave enough to dive in, but in high summer you’ll probably be tempted.
Lakeside exploration
Lakeside exploration
Back to the present day and our leisurely cruise along the lake. We headed south towards Morcote, one of Switzerland’s prettiest villages, and it’s even more attractive from the water. Out on the lake is also one of the best viewpoints for admiring Monte San Salvatore, the conical mountain that towers over Lugano (and, by the way, has a great funicular ride up to the top).
And then it was all over. Time flies when you’re having fun, and it certainly flew by on this relaxing trip. More than a tour with facts, this was an experience with a local who deeply loves her job. We look forward to welcoming you on board this special boat in Lugano – and once you’re there, you’ll find out our captain’s name. Until then, we’ll keep her secret.