Paddling through the wilderness
Canada
Imagine gliding through crystal waters so transparent you can see every detail of every starfish beneath your kayak. From the moment I dipped my paddle into the clear water, a deep sense of peace washed over me, and I knew I was in for something extraordinary. It was me, the kayak and more sea creatures than I ever imagined. British Columbia’s West Coast is remote, rugged and utterly captivating, a place where nature reigns supreme and humans are mere visitors. But the Great Bear Rainforest isn’t only amazing views and wildlife encounters, though there’s plenty of both, it’s also the traditional territory of the Heiltsuk First Nation.
To the edge of the world
To the edge of the world
For eight days I joined a sea kayaking expedition, travelling through this remote wilderness, where the wind-tossed outer islands feel like the edge of the world. We weren’t on well-worn tourist routes – this was real exploration, complete with remote beaches, undeveloped campsites and wolf tracks freshly imprinted in the sand. No mobile signal, no crowds, just raw untouched nature at every turn. We navigated some choppy waters during the trip but even in the moments when my arms ached and the weather turned wild, it only added to the adventure. Each challenge became part of the story.
Through First Nation territory
One of the most moving aspects of my trip was paddling through the ancestral waters of the Heiltsuk First Nation. These waters and lands have been cared for by the Heiltsuk people for millennia, with evidence of human occupation dating back over 14,000 years. Learning about their deep connection to the region was both humbling and eye-opening. Standing at Triquet Island, a significant site for the Heiltsuk, it was impossible not to reflect that this land has been home to countless generations of people. The island itself seemed to carry the weight of their stories.
The joys of going off-grid
The joys of going off-grid
Some of the most memorable moments of the trip weren’t about wildlife sightings or epic landscapes, they were the little joys that come from being off-grid. Morning tidal walks along deserted beaches, discovering the hidden treasures of the sea, the laughter echoing across the water as we rode the swells, accompanied by our guide’s lively shanties while crossing the channels; and evenings spent under the stars with nothing but the stillness of nature around us. There were plenty of logs around to truly “log off”!
Exploring the coast
Exploring the coast
British Columbia’s coast isn’t only about the intense experience of the Great Bear Rainforest. For those wanting something less rugged, the calm waters around Vancouver Island offer more accessible kayaking tours of sheltered bays and calm waters teeming with wildlife. You can enjoy seeing orcas, seals and eagles without straying too far from your creature comforts. Plus, the urban sophistication of Vancouver is never far away. From secret beaches to quiet hikes, the city is brimming with hidden gems waiting to be explored, not least the largest Chinatown in Canada. Vibrant Vancouver makes the perfect gateway to the peaceful wilderness where the call of the wild is hard to resist.
The Great Bear Rainforest is not just a place you visit, it’s a place you feel. It can change you if you let it. It is a place that stirs the soul. Paddle it to believe it. And invest in quality waterproof gear; this is a rainforest, after all.
By: Karolina Juras December 2024
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