Taking the night train to Prague
Prague, Czech Republic
Diccon Bewes
You go to bed in Zurich and wake up in Prague. No, it isn’t some futuristic form of teleportation, it’s the return of an old way to travel: the night train. Years after most overnight services were cancelled, some routes have been resurrected, notably to Prague through Germany. With deluxe compartments and convenient timetables, it’s a great alternative to flying so we decided to check it out.
The train leaves Zurich at 19.59 (or Basel at 21.13) and arrives in Prague the next morning at 09.38. Half the train goes to Berlin so make sure you get in the right part.
Your home for the night
Compact but clean and comfortable: welcome to your room! Your bed is already made up, and there is actually space to store a full-sized suitcase. Each compartment can sleep up to three people, with upper beds that pull down from the walls, though we felt two was the ideal number for comfort. Deluxe compartments have their own mini-bathroom with a shower (towels and soap provided) whereas standard ones only have a washbasin.
But before setting off, one small thing to note: this isn’t the Orient Express. It is not a super-luxury train, which means there is no restaurant car (and hopefully no murders) – so have dinner in the station and then jump on board. Drinks and snacks are available from the conductor, and breakfast is included in the ticket so no need to take a picnic hamper with you.
After you leave Basel, with the passport and customs checks done, you can settle in for the night. The onboard wifi was strong enough to stream Netflix but be warned: older carriages only have one plug per compartment. Charge your devices before you get on board. As for the bed, it was surprisingly comfortable. Not cramped at all and the gentle rocking motion meant I slept like a baby.
Rise and shine
Just past 7am and the train arrives in Dresden – and most people leave, which can be rather noisy so light sleepers should bring earplugs. But it does mean you’re awake to watch the world go by, once the conductor has converted your pad to its day format with seats and a table. Fresh rolls, yoghurt, juice and tea: just enough to keep you going for the final leg.
After Dresden the line follows the Elbe for quite some time, making it a scenic backdrop for breakfast on the move. Over the border into the Czech Republic and you’re rattling through the heart of Bohemia, past wooded valleys and tiny villages on the way to one of Europe’s great capitals. As the spires of Prague Castle appear on the skyline, you realise this is the best way to arrive in a city, not least because you are directly in the centre.
Our verdict? It’s a wonderful way to travel. No security queues or long check in times, city centre to city centre without any hassle and, not least, very eco-friendly. For an easy, stress-free journey that puts a bit of the romance back into travelling, we love the night train.
From Switzerland there are currently night train services to Amsterdam, Berlin, Budapest, Cologne, Dresden, Graz, Hamburg, Ljubljana, Prague, Vienna and Zagreb.
Written by: Diccon Bewes on 23 May 2023
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